This month, I thought I'd dispel a few misconceptions about a very well-known, but misunderstood, wine in Taiwan--Beaujolais--as it's Beaujolais Nouveau time again.

Beaujolais is a sub-region of Burgundy in France that has a different soil profile. Here almost all wines are red and made from the Gamay grape, as opposed to reds made from Pinot Noir elsewhere in Burgundy. These are separated into categories, starting with basic entry-level Beaujolais AOC wines. Next up in quality is Beaujolais-Villages, followed by wines named after the specific village/area they come from in Beaujolais, called Beaujolais Cru--Moulin-a-vent, Brouilly, Fleurie, Chenas, Morgon, Saint Amour, Julienas, Cotes-du-Brouilly, Chiroubles and Reginie.

None of these wines is designed for longevity, although some of the Cru wines will keep and be good drinking for 3-4 years. An exception can always be found, though. I had the exquisite timing on one trip to another Burgundy supplier to have him open a bottle from a 225-litre barrel of 1949 Moulin-a-vent. It was an incredible experience. When it first went into my glass it still retained a fresh strawberry character. However, after the sudden exposure to air (more precisely, oxygen), it deteriorated in both colour (going noticeably brownish) and flavour before I'd managed to have a second taste.

At its best, Beaujolais is a light-medium bodied, fresh, fruit-driven wine which can benefit from being lightly chilled (about 8-10°C) and goes very well with oily fish like fresh tuna or salmon, or heavy-flavoured chicken dishes.

Perhaps unfortunately, the only experience most have of Beaujolais in Taiwan and many other markets is a wine called Beaujolais Nouveau ("nouveau" meaning "new" in French). This is released with great celebration every November and is made from that year's harvest (around mid-Sept. to early-Oct.) entirely without the use of oak barrels, or bottle ageing. Fresh, fruity, simple and with very little tannin, this wine is certainly designed to be drunk immediately--within about 3 months. In some years, even by that point the fruit character is fading and as such it is not taken very seriously by most in the wine trade. Because it's not very popular in Europe anymore as tastes mature, it is heavily promoted in newer markets like Taiwan. It's often a fun, simple and pleasant drink--try a bottle or two, but don't keep it.

Look out for some Cru Beaujolais and let me know if you find any good ones!

Cheers, Kris

kris@wineconnection.co.nz
0916-222-336