A little disorientation is good. Unfamiliar streets, a different pace and not knowing what lies around the bend keeps life fresh. A 30-minute drive or 15-minute train ride is all you need to be transported into such an environment, in the heart of another city: Changhua.
To gain some insights into the city, I interviewed Mayor Wen Kuo-ming (see sidebar) and took his advice--"First, experience our cultural sites. Second, experience our special foods"--though not in that order. Accompanied by the organisers of the successful Changhua City Summer Splash festival and a kindly Mr. Chang from the mayor's office, we set out to try the lesser-known cousin of Changhua's famous specialty "Ba Wan" ("meat rounds"--a meat-filled glutinous dumpling)--the "Liang Ba Wan" ("Cold Ba Wan") at Changhua Liang Yuan (see sidebar). Though I must say that, at first, it didn't sound appealing, I now definitely prefer these to the normal, hot Ba Wan. The Liang Ba Wan were less oily, less sweet, more salty and had a stronger garlic aftertaste.

Fortified, fed and now accompanied by an attractive young woman from Changhua, it was time for some culture. Changhua is one of the oldest cities in Taiwan and, previously, Taichung was part of Changhua County. As the major seat of government for central Taiwan and with money flowing in from the (previously) successful port of Lugang, Changhua invested heavily in temples, with some dating back to the early 18th century.
Wandering the streets, it is easy to stumble upon one of Changhua's many famous temples. One of the oldest, built in 1738, is the Nan Yao MaZu (Matsu) Temple (43, NanYao Rd.). Very much like the Tienhou Temple in Lugang and the Wanhua Temple in Taipei, this structure is rich in history, colour and textures. The newer GuanYin Hall, built in the Japanese era, includes Chinese, Japanese and Greek architectural elements. The Confucius Temple (30, KongMen Rd.) was built in 1726 as the local Confucian school and cultural centre. Set in a park with pagodas and ponds, this place is a pleasant oasis in the midst of the bustling city.

Taiwan has few relics of the Dutch colonial period, so I was particularly keen to see the "Red Hair Well"--also called the "Well of the Savages" (542, ZhongShan Rd.)--that was purportedly dug by the Dutch. I was a little disappointed to find that it was, well, just a hole in the ground.
Up the hill from the well is Changhua's most famous tourist attraction, BaGua Mountain. This beautiful mountain-top park is one of the best inner-city parks I've ever seen, with a myriad of things to do. There are hiking trails, pleasant paths, bike trails, sculptures, ponds, fountains and much, much more to explore. For the romantic, it is a perfect place to take your date and gaze out over the city or north towards Taichung. There is even a complete fighter jet mounted on a stand, curiously looking as if it is about to launch an airstrike at the giant buddha.
The giant buddha sits right at the top of the hill over looking the city and is the symbol of Changhua. Towering 22 meters high (once Asia's biggest), this unique and massive landmark is hard to miss. In recent years, the area surrounding the buddha has been gentrified and is now very tranquil. Another addition to the park is the Anti-Japanese Martyr's Memorial, commemorating the last stand of the anti-Japanese general, Wu PengNian, against the new colonial government in 1895. Two cannons from that battle are on display.
After a day of cultural exploration, it's time for dinner. A common choice is Ah Zhang Ba Wan, considered by many as one of the best places to try out Changhua Ba Wan. The curiously-named MaoShu Mian ('Cat-Mouse Noodles') eatery makes unique noodles with a truly amazing broth, not surprising since they've had since 1924 to get it right.

My friends at J2 Promotions recommended Dream Garden, an attractive Italian restaurant that looks like a great spot to take a date, but I had to save space in my stomach for my favourite Changhua restaurant--Hsihu Mutton. This spot, named after a famous restaurant in the Changhua County town of Xihu, makes truly fantastic mutton hot pots. With some old friends joining me, a great meal and a bottle of Johnny Walker, this dinner was a true Changhua experience.
After dinner, many like to go shopping and the best spot for that is the nicely spruced up YongLe Street Night Market. Although unlikely to deliver any more surprises than other night markets, the new brick paving and attractive street lights make it a more pleasant stroll than most.
To cap off the day, a visit to a local watering hole seemed a good plan and one worth checking out is New York Pub. This is a woody-style classic pub with reasonable prices, a strong pour and great choice in music.
Of course, the best part of the day was the journey of exploration itself--getting lost and finding hidden treasures and new surprises. For something a little different, make Changhua your next day trip!

Changhua cuisine
Exclusive Interview With Changhua Mayor Wen Kuo-ming

COMPASS: I see you are about to host the Summer Splash music festival out front of the train station. Do you plan to host more events?
WKM: Probably. Before, we had the youngest band in the world perform here!
COMPASS: For a visitor to the city, what are the 'must-see' spots?
WKM: Bagua Mountain, the Cultural Centre and the Confucian Temple are all in the same neighbourhood and within walking distance of each other. First, try some Changhua Cold BaWan and then check out these sites.
COMPASS: What area of the city is the best for someone interested in food?
WKM: Near the train station.
COMPASS: When you have free time (if you ever have any), what do you like to do for fun?
WKM: Check out local cultural sites.
COMPASS: How is the city working to improve the experience for the visitor (i.e. infrastructure, etc.)?
WKM: First, we are renovating cultural sites. Then we're matching up modern and traditional events and sites togethor.
COMPASS: What makes Changhua special to you?
WKM: Changhua is a very suitable for modern living. Earthquakes and floods haven't affected us; it's a suitable living environment. Also, Changhua people are kind and good natured.
COMPASS: Many people from Changhua visit Taichung on the weekend, what would you say to people in Taichung about visiting Changhua?
WKM: First, experience our cultural sites. Second, experience our special foods.