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COMPASS MAGAZINE, April 2004.

 




River Tracing: The Coolest Way To Get Up River

By Antonio Graceffo Translated by Sheng Chen

      If you've ever been to an amusement park and ridden down a water ride, you can imagine how much fun it would be to ride down a big waterfall. But, have you ever considered going up a waterfall?

      In river tracing, you not only climb up the waterfalls, but you climb up and over every rock in the river, tracing the waterway to its source. Fighting against the current, advancing up the river, and clambering over boulders is a great workout and a challenge. Each time you overcome an obstacle, you'll feel a real sense of accomplishment.

      River tracing started 40 years ago in Italy, when mountaineers hit on a new way to reach inaccessible peaks in the Alps. The sport came to Taiwan in the early 1980s.

      Once you've donned your equipment--swimsuit, life jacket, helmet, kneepads, rubber boots, and a rappelling harness--it's time to get wet. The best way to get into a cold river is to simply jump in. Your going to get soaked from head to toe, anyway, so you might as well enjoy the rush of sudden immersion.

      The water will be cold no matter what time of year you go. Most people prefer to go in summer, when the air is hot. But diehards go year round, sometimes wearing wetsuits for warmth.

      The boots are the most impressive piece of equipment. They can grip anything. You'll see a slime-covered rock, and think "There's no way I can stand on that." But as soon as you put your boot on it, you'll have traction.

      Good river-tracing boots can be purchased for less than NT$1,000. The traditional ones look like the boots worn for scuba diving; the newer boots have the same rubberized bottoms, but look more like hiking boots.

      Even if you dislike package tours, you won't be able to go river tracing without support. Fortunately, Taiwan has some excellent guides, who you can contact through river tracing clubs (see box below). It's best to let your guides pick the route: They are familiar with the individual personality of the river, and know where the dangers lie.

      Because Taiwan has so many streams and creeks, it's not necessary to drive far to go river tracing. Each stream is different: In Taroko Gorge you'll be walking over and around giant boulders; in Wulai you'll be climbing more waterfalls. River tracing can be a day trip, or you can carry trekking gear and sleep out overnight.

      Climbing up a waterfall is no different to other types of climbing. You simply reach inside the falls, and look for foot and hand holds. You shouldn't put your hips as close to the wall as you would in normal climbing, however, because then your head would go under water.

      The scenery is incredible. There are small rapids, waterfalls, and green pools. The sides of the river are often rocky cliffs, ten or more meters high. Hikers often look down on rapids from above. But river tracers meet them head on.
Walking in a stream, your scent and footsteps are masked from animal detection. You may be able to sneak up on animals coming to drink. At the very least you'll be able to see beautiful mosses, flowers and trees.

      Some people like whitewater rafting or kayaking. But the boat is a barrier. To truly appreciate the river, you have to live it, be part of it. In river tracing, you live and breathe with the river.

      For more information, contact the Taipei River Tracing Club (02-2594-2108), the Changhua River Tracing Club (04-724-0783), or the Southern River Tracing Club (06-237-4804). To see more Taiwan river-tracing photos, go to www.rivertracing.com (English) or www.abovesault.idv.tw (in Chinese).