The rustic charms of an almost almost__forgotten mining town

By Tammy Huang Translated by Jacques Van Werson

The twin mining towns have grown radically apart. One could say that Chin Kua Shih resembles an old wife, simple but solid, never having lost her graceful, quiet demeanor. Chiufen, on the other hand, is like a young concubine, wearing make-up to look fresh and pretty as she cheerfully greets passersby.

Despite Chin Kua Shih's relative desolation, people still call on the town to enjoy different aspects of her charms in different seasons. In the spring, one can witness cherry blossoms, floating like big snowflakes gently falling to the ground. In the summer, one may enjoy the fragrance of ginger flowers while, in the autumn and winter, the mountain's swaying reeds keep one company. Visitors to the area know they are following in the footsteps of many great people who spent some time in Chin Kua Shih, such as the great Japanese writer Sanmao, in appreciating its wonders.

Chin Kua Shih's scenic attractions can be roughly divided into three areas--around the Chin Kua Shih bus station, in the Chang Jen community, and along Route 109.

I. A walking tour around the bus station
Many tourists visit this area. There are a few shops and street vendors near the train station, so any needed supplies can be purchased here before going further afield. Japanese-style buildings line both sides of the flagstone path. Chin Kua Shih has an authentic Japanese feel to it, making it the favorite spot for filmmakers seeking to recreate a Japanese ambiance.

1. Prince Hotel: During the Japanese colonial period, the Japanese emperor and crown prince built this hotel for recreational purposes, making it out of top-quality Chinese juniper to create a magnificent Japanese structure. There is a large (100-ping) courtyard and a golf course and archery court are expected to open by the end of the year.
2. The Fifth Mine: This mineshaft is practically ready to operate, retaining its tram and trolleys, air vent system and transformer station. The Fifth Mine is currently being prepared for opening to the public as a gold and copper mining museum where visitors can see how mining was done back in the '50s.
3. Gold mining shrine: A 30-minute trek up from the Fifth Mine will take you to the ruins of a shrine. All that's left now is the foundation and some stone pillars, but the spot affords an excellent view of Teapot Mountain and the surrounding area.
4. Teapot Mountain: The mountain is named after its shape as seen from one angle, though from another angle it resembles a lion and, thus, is also sometimes called Lion Mountain. It provides an excellent overlook of the surrounding area.

III. Route 109
If you choose to drive along Route 109, you will find yourself constantly stopping to check out the spectacular scenery. Locals highly recommend this drive.

1. Shumei Park: This park used to be the site of a US missile base. Now it continues to offer views of Keelung Mountain and all the harbors in the area. The sea and the mountains seem to merge into one from this vantage point.
2. Tatsukeng: This area was home to more than 1,000 residents at the peak of the mining era, but now only a handful of families remain amid the relics of the village's mining past. A trail through the ruins gives visitors the opportunity to examine Tatsukeng's past.

How to get there:

Mass transit:
Towards You Bus Corp. has a route to Chin Kua Shih, leaving from Chunglun Station on Pateh Road in Taipei.

1. Take a train from Taipei Railway Station to Ruifang. In front of the Ruifang railway station, you can either take a Keelung Transport bus or a Towards You (Chin Kua Shih route) bus.
2. Take a train to Keelung. Transfer onto a Keelung Transport bus to Chin Kua Shih from the station that is catty-corner from the train station. Buses leave every 15 minutes, from 6 a.m. to 10:10 p.m. A ticket from Keelung to Chiufen costs NT$40, and NT$49 to Chin Kua Shih.
3. From anywhere south of Taipei, take a bus or train to Taipei or Keelung and then follow the above instructions.

By car:
1. Drive along the North-South Freeway toward Keelung, then exit at the northeastern Chiaohai-an interchange and follow the signs to Ruifang. Cross Ruifang's Mingteng Bridge and take a right toward Chiufen and Chin Kua Shih.
2. From Keelung, drive along Pinhai Road to the first road before Ruipin Sea Park and take a right. Then take a left at the public services office. This road will take you to Chiufen and Chin Kua Shih.