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MAGAZINE, July 2001. VOL. 8 ISSUE 7
Photo:
Henry Westheim © 2001
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EXPLORING
THE OLD HEART OF TAICHUNG ON FOOT: A
Walking Tour of Taichung's Central District
by Douglas Habecker
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Once upon a time, not very long ago, there was no Taichung Kang
Road commercial district, no redevelopment zones, no thriving Peitun,
Nantun or Hsitun districts and certainly no commercial circles
around Chung Yo, Sogo or Mitsukoshi department stores, which did
not exist. Taichung and all of its commercial activities revolved
around one place and one place onlyCentral District, with
its crowded, bustling avenues and sideroads, department stores and
hundreds of small shops and restaurants.
During the past 15 years, that situation has completely changed.
More recently, Central District residents and businesses have joined
city officials in bemoaning the fact that what once was the beating
heart of Taichung is now a shell of its former self, with businesses
big and small joining customers in a flight to other newer corners
of the city. That fact has been recently highlighted by the closure
of landmarks like Far Eastern Department Store.
Despite the seemingly-gloomy outlook, however, Central District
may be headed for a renaissance of sorts as residents and city officials
have joined hands to beautify and revive the area. Over the past
year, the Taichung (Chungshan) Park, Luchuan Canal and Electronics
Street have all received attractive face-lifts and work is underway
to convert Chikuang Street into a pedestrian-only shopping area,
similar in some ways to the very popular Chingming 1st Street.
Just as important, Central District has always been one of the
most fascinating places of the city to visit and stroll through
by foot. Convenient parking facilities on its periphery, the compact
nature of the district and already-crowded streets make walking
the best option for seeing the sights, exploring the back alleys
and sampling the exotic spectrum of flavors offered by a multitude
of shops, eateries and other attractions. For anyonevisitor
or residentwho has not taken the time to explore the older,
traditional side of downtown Taichung, Central District is an absolute
must-see.
Taichung
Park
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The
following Central District walking tour (see
map) is good for two to five hours of enjoyment, depending
on ones speed and number of stops. This is just a suggested
get-acquainted route, as this area offers much more that can
be exploring in depth to ones pleasure. As the oldest
and best-known landmark in the city, Taichung Park, with
its well-known lakeside pavilions, is probably the best place
to start a tour. Completed in 1903 during the Japanese colonial
era, the park has seen its most extensive renovation in decades
in the past year, thanks to the efforts of the current city
government administration. Already completed or nearing completion
are wider, newly-paved and more open sidewalks |
and
pathways, bright playground areas, a new row-boating rental
dock and other facilities. Overall, the park is also cleaner
and better landscaped. |
After a stroll through the park, taking in the greenery and clusters
of senior citizen regulars who hang out there, head across Kungyuan
Road to the Hoover Movie Theater. The city block that contains
this large theater complexbetween Kungyuan, Kuangfu, Shihfu
and Pingteng roads--also contains a maze of dark inner alleys with
old shops and residences, leaking air conditioners and the debris
of several decades, all creating a scene straight out of the movie
Bladerunner. However, the whole block comes to life
every Saturday morning when it fills up with dozens of stalls and
crowds of customers for the Saturday Jade Market, an exotic enjoyable
experience. On the back side of the block, at the intersection of
Kuangfu and Shihfu roads, the 369 Snack Bar (145, Shihfu
Rd.) is one of the areas oldest and most popular eateries,
serving great beef noodles, dumplings and other traditional treats
for lunch and dinner.
On any evening, heading back north Kungyuan Road and across Sanmin
Road will take you into the Chunghua Night Market. The oldest, largest
and best-known of Taichungs night markets, this fascinating
areawith dozens of stalls selling everything from seafood
to electronicsstretches a few blocks up to Chunghua Road and
stays open until at least 1 or 2 a.m.
Get back on Kungyuan Road and head past the Humanitics Style
Café and Park Hotel to Tzuyu Road. Turning right
at the McDonalds (the citys longest-standing
one), stroll along Tzuyu Road past the old double-feature Park Theater,
which appears to be under renovation. Further on down is the popular,
large and glitzy-looking Cash Box KTV, housed in what used
to an ATT Department Store. A KFC outlet stands at the corner
of Chengkung Road where one can turn right, head about a block and
enjoy an excellent steak and classy atmosphere at Y.Y.s
Steak House (196, Chengkung Rd.), run by veteran Taipei restaurateur
Y.Y., a wonderful raconteur who loves to reminisce with foreign
friends about the good old days.
Back
on Tzuyu Road, you will pass the indented entrance to the 1+1
Movie Theater, opposite the now-closed Far Eastern Department
Store, before coming to another |
landmark,
Mystore Bakery (94, Chung Cheng Rd.). In business since
1945, Mystore makes good bread and pastries but is just as famous
for the fact that it reputedly sits on the most valuable real
estate in the entire city. Cater-corner to Mystore is the vintage-looking
Chang Hwa Commercial Bank building which looks about
the same as in photos taken around World War II. At this intersection,
turn left onto Chung Cheng Road, heading in the direction of
the train station. |
Chang
Hwa Commercial Bank
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Continued...
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