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COMPASS MAGAZINE, July 2001. VOL. 8 ISSUE 7

Photo: Henry Westheim © 2001

EXPLORING THE OLD HEART OF TAICHUNG ON FOOT: A Walking Tour of Taichung's Central District by Douglas Habecker

Once upon a time, not very long ago, there was no Taichung Kang Road commercial district, no redevelopment zones, no thriving Peitun, Nantun or Hsitun districts and certainly no ‘commercial circles’ around Chung Yo, Sogo or Mitsukoshi department stores, which did not exist. Taichung and all of its commercial activities revolved around one place and one place only—Central District, with its crowded, bustling avenues and sideroads, department stores and hundreds of small shops and restaurants.

During the past 15 years, that situation has completely changed. More recently, Central District residents and businesses have joined city officials in bemoaning the fact that what once was the beating heart of Taichung is now a shell of its former self, with businesses big and small joining customers in a flight to other newer corners of the city. That fact has been recently highlighted by the closure of landmarks like Far Eastern Department Store.

Despite the seemingly-gloomy outlook, however, Central District may be headed for a renaissance of sorts as residents and city officials have joined hands to beautify and revive the area. Over the past year, the Taichung (Chungshan) Park, Luchuan Canal and Electronics Street have all received attractive face-lifts and work is underway to convert Chikuang Street into a pedestrian-only shopping area, similar in some ways to the very popular Chingming 1st Street.

Just as important, Central District has always been one of the most fascinating places of the city to visit and stroll through by foot. Convenient parking facilities on its periphery, the compact nature of the district and already-crowded streets make walking the best option for seeing the sights, exploring the back alleys and sampling the exotic spectrum of flavors offered by a multitude of shops, eateries and other attractions. For anyone—visitor or resident—who has not taken the time to explore the older, traditional side of downtown Taichung, Central District is an absolute must-see.

Taichung Park

The following Central District walking tour (see map) is good for two to five hours of enjoyment, depending on one’s speed and number of stops. This is just a suggested get-acquainted route, as this area offers much more that can be exploring in depth to one’s pleasure. As the oldest and best-known landmark in the city, Taichung Park, with its well-known lakeside pavilions, is probably the best place to start a tour. Completed in 1903 during the Japanese colonial era, the park has seen its most extensive renovation in decades in the past year, thanks to the efforts of the current city government administration. Already completed or nearing completion are wider, newly-paved and more open sidewalks

and pathways, bright playground areas, a new row-boating rental dock and other facilities. Overall, the park is also cleaner and better landscaped.

After a stroll through the park, taking in the greenery and clusters of senior citizen regulars who hang out there, head across Kungyuan Road to the Hoover Movie Theater. The city block that contains this large theater complex—between Kungyuan, Kuangfu, Shihfu and Pingteng roads--also contains a maze of dark inner alleys with old shops and residences, leaking air conditioners and the debris of several decades, all creating a scene straight out of the movie ‘Bladerunner’. However, the whole block comes to life every Saturday morning when it fills up with dozens of stalls and crowds of customers for the Saturday Jade Market, an exotic enjoyable experience. On the back side of the block, at the intersection of Kuangfu and Shihfu roads, the 369 Snack Bar (145, Shihfu Rd.) is one of the area’s oldest and most popular eateries, serving great beef noodles, dumplings and other traditional treats for lunch and dinner.

On any evening, heading back north Kungyuan Road and across Sanmin Road will take you into the Chunghua Night Market. The oldest, largest and best-known of Taichung’s night markets, this fascinating area—with dozens of stalls selling everything from seafood to electronics—stretches a few blocks up to Chunghua Road and stays open until at least 1 or 2 a.m.

Get back on Kungyuan Road and head past the Humanitics Style Café and Park Hotel to Tzuyu Road. Turning right at the McDonald’s (the city’s longest-standing one), stroll along Tzuyu Road past the old double-feature Park Theater, which appears to be under renovation. Further on down is the popular, large and glitzy-looking Cash Box KTV, housed in what used to an ATT Department Store. A KFC outlet stands at the corner of Chengkung Road where one can turn right, head about a block and enjoy an excellent steak and classy atmosphere at Y.Y.’s Steak House (196, Chengkung Rd.), run by veteran Taipei restaurateur Y.Y., a wonderful raconteur who loves to reminisce with foreign friends about the good old days.

Back on Tzuyu Road, you will pass the indented entrance to the 1+1 Movie Theater, opposite the now-closed Far Eastern Department Store, before coming to another

landmark, Mystore Bakery (94, Chung Cheng Rd.). In business since 1945, Mystore makes good bread and pastries but is just as famous for the fact that it reputedly sits on the most valuable real estate in the entire city. Cater-corner to Mystore is the vintage-looking Chang Hwa Commercial Bank building which looks about the same as in photos taken around World War II. At this intersection, turn left onto Chung Cheng Road, heading in the direction of the train station.

Chang Hwa Commercial Bank

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